Saturday, June 6, 2009
Pics and Videos
Lost in Laos
Another thing that I need to "let go" of is my typos or, god forbid, my grammatical mistakes in these posts. For some reason proofing my own stuff is quite hard and even harder on the computer. I used to print them out and for some reason that helped but that is not currently an option so I've decided to let it go. Of course I couldn't resist the chance to ensure that anyone that might read this would be aware that I know I make mistakes, I just don't always get them corrected before posting and never seem to have time to correct them after they are posted.
The week of 29May I had the exceptional and rare opportunity to experience one of those magical places on this earth. Luang Prabang, Laos reminds me of the feeling I've had in 2 other places, Zipolite, Mexico in 1983 and Olu Deniz, Turkey in 1989. Wonderful, out of the way places that are just starting to experience the good and bad of increased tourism. Thankfully Luang Prabang was designated as an Unesco World Heritage site back in 1995 and it is very remote so that will help. By the way, Laos is pronounced Lao as the "s" is silent. Yes, most English speaking people say it in incorrectly. The people are Lao and they speak Lao. It is a communist country but over 90% of the people are Buddhists.
It was actually a matter of having to renew my Thai visa as it would expire on 30MAY. I found that I could fly directly to Luang Prabang on Lao Airlines from Chian Mai. Sweetness! A lovely prop jet soared us over the mountains and down into the Luang Prabang. Visa on arrival, currently $35 USD to enter, a prompt and efficient process and I was off to my hotel. You can save $1 USD by having your own passport picture. I had originally considered Vientiane but it is much bigger than Luang Prabang.
I had decided to arrange a room in advance but this is definitely one of those places where, during off season at least, you will find many guest houses and I imagine the majority of them do not have any listing on the web. I guess the primary time to visit is Nov-Mar but the off season is perfect for me. Luang Prabang sits on the confluence of the Nam Than and Mekong rivers. The mighty Mekong and it is huge. I suppose it depends on your age but I immediately think of Apocalypse Now whenever I hear anything about the Mekong River. I adore large bodies of water anywhere in the world but big rivers have a character all of their own. I could watch the Nam Than from my hotel and was fascinated by some of the fishing practices using a large circular net and the fisherman gathering it up and folding in a very particular way and then throwing it out where it would land in the water in a perfect circle.
Luang Prabang has one of the highest concentrations of temples and monks anywhere. Living at a monastery and practicing as a monk, even for a short time, is expected of all young Buddhist men. Some only participate for 2 weeks. On my second day, I climbed to the top of the temple at the center of town and had a lovely time chatting with a young Lao monk. He wanted to practice his English. At one point in our conversation he asked me how old I was and I told him to which he responded "wow, you're old"....he was all of 20 and had never been out of Lao but is hoping to continue his Buddhist studies in India someday.
There is still a very distinct wildness about this place. It is quite obvious that even though there are lots of little eateries and guest houses, especially along the Mekong, it is still quite innocent. The edges of the river are wild with overgrowth and all kinds of life. The boat drivers seem just as happy to go back to their games with their friends when you say "Baw, Khawp Jai" to their offers of "boat ride". The buzz of the jungle can be heard steps from the center of town. I took the opportunity to rest a moment at the end point of the town at the river confluence and saw TONS of butterflies, a beautiful orange snake and bright yellow lizard all while taking a few minutes rest just steps from the town road.
My title for this post is based on my activities the first day. I jumped on one of the free hotel bikes and took off towards town. The high and narrow bridge over the Nam Tham seemed quite mild on a bike. I covered the main streets of the town in a short time, although the searing heat and single speed bike made it a bit of a challenge. Although the seat was adjusted high enough for my legs, the crank arm is so short it makes taking a good strong pump through the pedals quite difficult. Overall, it felt great to be on a bike and was a fantastic way to get around this beautiful little town. So I set off in another direction hoping to see some more local colour. I weaved my way past little village after village each seemingly having some type of specialty going on. There was the mechanics village, the basket village, a weaving village, pottery village, and many others. Before I knew it I was on a busy road with trucks and fast moving traffic and I realized I had no idea where I was and that I was lost. Lost in Laos...sounds pretty cool. I knew I couldn't have gotten than far away so persevered and made it make in about an hour. I was soaked in sweat and exhausted and proceeded to stuff myself with beer and a delicious Lao lunch. YUM.
I went back to Chiang Mai on 29 and headed straight back to the Dreamcatchers B&B before joining up with my YTT on Sunday 31May.
Earth and sky, woods and fields, lakes and rivers, the mountain and the sea, are excellent schoolmasters, and teach some of us more than we can ever learn from books. __John Lubbock
Pics and videos updated too.
Friday, June 5, 2009
Finally...some pics uploaded
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Chiang Mai
Bangkok
Bangkok
I cannot seem to link any pics to the blog at the moment which is a bit of disappointment as I quite like the little pics in with the writing. Alas, I don't want to get too far behind...so...
Thailand...no more morning call to prayer from the mahjid but now I here the morning gong from the Buddhist temples. The sun rises much earlier here which I am loving...always have been been and always will be a morning person.
My three days in Bangkok flew by although I did manage to get around and see quite a bit. Bangkok feels hotter than KL which I imagine is due to all the people, cars, buses, tuk-tuks, and everything else. Bangkok is currently estimated to be about 9 million people with up to 15 mil in greater Bangkok. KL is only about 1.8 million (with 8 mil in Klang valley) so not surprising that it feels so different. I stayed in the Sukumvit area which is a bit of everything including apartment buildings, office buildings, huge markets, and luckily for me, lots of public transport including the sky train and MRT.
It definitely feels more third world than Malaysia...more dirt, more stinky smells, more slums, etc. No one drinks the water unless they have to where in KL the tap water was fine.
I decided to make my way to the Chao Phraya river on my first day after spending a lovely relaxing morning with a great breakfast including a large helping of delicious seaweed salad. Breakfast here is a bit different with a Japanese influence and no nasi lemak in sight.
Bangkok seemed just like I imagined it would, big and chaotic with a bit of dark feel to it. I managed to find my way on the MRT to a section of town near the river and I had the ridiculous idea I would find my way to the river front and walk along some lovely path on the river. Uh...not so much. I ended wandering around in Chinatown for about 2 hours while I figured out that nearly every inch of river and canal front in Bangkok is used for anything and everything. Everything from little wooden shacks nearly hanging in the river to elaborate riverfront condos with huge decks overlooking this majestic river. Tons and tons of private docks into the river moving around all kinds of goods. I finally managed to get out of Chinatown and get to a public ferry at the riverfront. I took the ferry up to area near the Temple of the Dawn. After all my wandering, I realized I was too late to go to Wat Pho (the reclining Buddha) and decided to try to find a little hotel/restaurant I had read about called "the Deck" that is known for its fantastic view of the Temple of the Dawn. It took awhile but I finally found it and was very happy to have my first sip of cold beer (big bottle for less than $2) and look out at this impressive Temple. The temples here are HUGE and this is one of the biggest. The river in the foreground is quite a site with its piles of seaweed everywhere and ferries and longboats zooming past. My pics will not do the temple justice as it is so massive. I did end up chatting with a lovely young Brit with his Thai wife and baby and he was taking pics with an awesome camera so have to follow up on that one as I have his email address.
Watched the sunset and then had a delicious meal of papaya salad and Pad Thai, my favourite combo of Thai food. This was a very unique and interesting presentation of phad thai with an omelette sort of wrapped around the noodles. It was delicious.
As there are no trains around the temple, I decided to take the tuk tuk back to the hotel. What an interesting way to see the city. The tuk tuks are all motorcycles now where they used to be bicycles. The poor little driver had to stop and ask directions 3 times to get me back to the hotel. I don't think tuk tuks are meant to go all the way across the city. It was all very entertaining. Some of the fancy Mercedes and BMWs whizzing past seemed to be as amused as I was at the farang in the big city.
The next day I was off bright and early to Wat Pho hoping to beat the heat and the crowds and luckily it worked. You can't really believe the size of the Reclining Buddha, it is gigantic! The feet are really spectacular as they are inlaid with mother of pearl. The temple grounds go on and on and eventually intersects with the Grand Palace.
Once the heat really started descending on the temple, I headed back on the ferry and to the skytrain to another part of town where lots of the fancy hotels are and where lots of expats live. I think I already mentioned this but I am still struck how many Caucasians I see in Thailand, that was simply not the case in Kuala Lumpur...or really anywhere in Malaysia.
I ended having a 2 hour Thai massage and foot massage in the area. I really like the Thai massage but it is not particularly relaxing but sure stretches things out nicely. I had some delicious green curry at a little outdoor cafe and headed back to my hotel early. Green curry, papaya salad, and Pad Thai...all my Thai favourites and now I've eaten them in Bangkok. I am flying to Chiang Mai as another 10 hours on a train did not sound that great when I could fly in an hour.
Cheers!
Monday, May 18, 2009
Da Train...the very long train
The Ultimate Malaysia Adventure
What a fabulous trip!!! OK, we could have used two more days and it would have been great if the air con in the car didn't quit on the second day, but the sights we saw were just spectacular.